Andrzej Zawada, originator of winter himalaism,
during his last expedition (Nanga Parbat 1997/98)
Andrzej Zawada was the first
climber to step above 8000 meters in winter. The Polish climbing legend
reached 8000 meters plus on Lhotse in 1974 during the winter. Andrej was the
first to reach the Summit of Kunyang Chhish in Pakistan, an extremely
difficult peak to summit. But Andrej will be best remembered for being an
expedition leader. He was the expedition leader that put the first two men on
the Summit of Everest in Winter (Krzysztof
Wielicki and Leszek Cichy.)
Andrzej Zawada gave climbing
the idea of winter 8000 meter climbing when he led the first ever expedition
which conquered Mount Everest in winter. He was a honorary member old British
Alpine Club, Groupe de Haute Montagne and member of The Explorers Club.
Andrzej Zawada was the
expedition leader of the first ever expeditions to summit Cho Oyu and Lhotse
in winter along with his long list of other achievements. He died this Autumn
of cancer in Poland. In 1997 he led the Polish climb of Nanga Parbat in winter
at the age of 69 !!!
For a partial list of
achievements by Polish climbers successes in winter on 8000 meter climbs see
Krzysztof Wielicki takes on
Makalu in the Winter ! Krzysztof
will attempt to be the first climber to summit Makalu for a second time.
Krzysztof, in style will
attempt this climb in Winter !!!