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EverestHistory.com: Sergei Bogomolov


Sergei Bogomolov summited Everest May 13th, 1995 via the standard South East Ridge route. In addition, he reached the summit of Kangchenjunga  on April 29th, 1989;Cho Oyu on October 20th, 1991; Dhaulagiri on May 11th, 1993; Makalu on May 23rd, 1996; Lhotse on May 26th, 1997 and Gasherbrum I and II in 2002.

He summited Shishapangma Central with Marina Ershova and two other Russians - Oleg Nasedkin and Vladimir Belous on May 16, 2002. Bogomolov was disappointed - he wanted the Main summit. So he did the second ascent on May 24 with Vladimir Oleynik who was ill before. This becomes his most interesting "Summit" in that it is not understood: Bogomolov says that he summited Shishapangma Main along a new route last spring (above) but the details are very thin and he does not have any photo or video document. Below is the details he gave Andrey Ershov about the description of his route.

The climbing route is from Camp 3 (7350 m) to East Ridge through the big snow basin separating NE and E ridges. We went under the icefall. We thought to climb up direct to the summit or more right but it was too steep. And we did a traverse under the icefall to the left and reached E ridge. Then along the ridge. There was one more steep ascent. We went with a rope, Vladimir Oleynik went with oxygen. We left Camp 3 at 03:00, reached the summit at 14:30 and returned to Camp 3 at 17:45. A fog started about 13:30 and we had no visibility near the summit. My photo camera was out of order and we didn't take the video camera - we took only some power bars and drinks.

Hopefully, in time if can be figured out if Sergei Bogomolov reached the true Main summit of Shishapangma [we give him credit today based on his word] and a more detailed description of the route that they took can be established [the map above is a guess based on his short report]. However, in mountaineering many times they things are never for sure...

In 2003 Sergei Bogomolov summited  Nanga Parbat for his 10th 8000 meter peak.

Photo Source: Andrey Ershov

 
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