summited Everest May 13th, 1995 via the standard South East Ridge
route. In addition, he reached the summit of
Kangchenjunga on April 29th, 1989;Cho Oyu on
October 20th, 1991;
Dhaulagiri on May 11th, 1993;
Makalu on May 23rd, 1996;
Lhotse on May 26th, 1997 and
Gasherbrum I and II in 2002.
He summited Shishapangma Central with Marina Ershova and two other Russians
- Oleg Nasedkin and Vladimir Belous on May 16, 2002. Bogomolov was
disappointed - he wanted the Main summit. So he did the second ascent on May
24 with Vladimir Oleynik who was ill before. This becomes his most interesting
"Summit" in that it is not understood: Bogomolov
says that he summited Shishapangma Main along a new route last spring (above)
but the details are very thin and he does not have any photo or video
document. Below is the details he gave Andrey Ershov about the description of
The climbing route is from Camp 3 (7350 m) to East Ridge
through the big snow basin separating NE and E ridges. We went under the
icefall. We thought to climb up direct to the summit or more right but it was
too steep. And we did a traverse under the icefall to the left and reached E
ridge. Then along the ridge. There was one more steep ascent. We went with a
rope, Vladimir Oleynik went with oxygen. We left Camp 3 at 03:00, reached the
summit at 14:30 and returned to Camp 3 at 17:45. A fog started about 13:30 and
we had no visibility near the summit. My photo camera was out of order and we
didn't take the video camera - we took only some power bars and drinks.
Hopefully, in time if can be figured out if
Sergei Bogomolov reached the true Main summit of
Shishapangma [we give him credit today based on his word] and a more detailed
description of the route that they took can be established [the map above is a
guess based on his short report]. However, in mountaineering many times they
things are never for sure...
Parbat for his 10th 8000 meter peak.
Photo Source: Andrey Ershov
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