When the American Alpine Club selected 23-year-old Carlos Buhler for a
joint Soviet-American expedition to the Pamir Range of Central Asia,
being sponsored by the Soviet Union's Mountaineering Federation, they
must have seen serious potential in the young man. Nor was that view
misguided as Buhler went on to partake in thirty-four expeditions on
In 1983 he was part of an American team that made the first summit from
the East Face of Everest (also known as the Kangshung Face). The ascent
up Everest's then virgin Eastern side took five and a half weeks and has
never been repeated. Though successful in putting six Americans on the
summit the expedition was darkened by the falling deaths of two Japanese
climbers and a sherpa from another nearby expedition.
Buhler went on to perform some impressive mountaineering feats after his
summit of Everest. He made the first solo summit of Dorje Lhakpa (22,854
feet) in 1992. In 1994 he attempted K2 but was forced to turn back just
short of the peak by darkness. 1997 saw Buhler leading another
Russian-American in a successful summit of Nanga Parbat (the world's
ninth tallest mountain). He also climbed North Face of Changabang
(22,514 feet), Siula Grande (Peru), Milarepa Peak (Tibet), and Dhiang
Peak (Pakistan) in the years that followed.
He has published a book based on the East Face expedition titled
"Everest, Eighty years of triumph and tragedy"
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