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ELSA
AVILA born the 11th November 1963 in Mexico. Profession:
Civil Engineer Occupation:
Business woman
Sport
career: At
the age of 15, she began rock climbing. She dedicated many
years to it, specializing in ‘Big wall’ ascents in
Yosemite, the Rockies, the Alps, the Andes, the Himalayas,
Patagonia and Baffin Island.
She
has participated in 8 expeditions to different mountains in
the Himalayas, reaching more than 8,000 meters on 6 occasions,
culminating in 1987 with her ascent of Shishapangma (8,047 meters)
where she made the first traverse of the shoulder between the
west summit and the main summit. In doing so, she became the
first Latin American woman to reach an 8,000 meters
summit.
In
1989, she reached the south summit of Everest at 8,750 m.,
only 98 meters from the summit (8,848 m) She decided to
descend due to serious hypoxia.
She
has achieved many Mexican first ascents, and some world
firsts. For example she made the first female ascent of the
Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia and the south face of Svanvhit,
in the Arctic (Baffin Island).
In
1992, she returned to the Himalayas with the intention of
climbing Kanchenjunga (3rd highest mountain in the world at
8,586 meters) and which at that time had not been climbed by
any women. She had to turn back at 7,850 meters when she was
caught in a fierce storm, which left here with severe
frostbite in her fingers and hands – she still hasn’t
fully recovered from these injuries.
After
a period during which she didn’t go back to high mountains
and during which she engaged in other sporting activities, she
returned to the Himalayas in 1999 and on the 5th May she
reached the summit of Everest, in doing so she became the
first Latin American woman to reach it.
Currently,
she participates in extreme team sporting events which include
swimming, climbing, running, mountain biking, orienteering and
rafting, to name but a few.
She
has received numerous prizes for her sporting achievements
including in 1985, the National Youth Prize. She was named
sportswoman of the century for climbing by CONADE and the
Government of the Republic. The book, Experiences in the
Himalaya – Adventure of Hope which was written in
conjunction with Carlos Carsolio received the Editorial Merit
Prize in 1991.
Elsa’s
philosophy and her attitude in confronting risks had allowed
her to reach high points in many areas of life. She has two
children (Karina and Santiago) and has great success as a
business woman and lecturer.
At
the moment she heads up the Carsolio Centre for Motivational
Excellence where she helps a select group of instructors
develop leadership programmes for young people and gives
motivational courses for executives of major Mexican
businesses.
ELSA
ÁVILA BELLO
PRINCIPAL
INTERNATIONAL ASCENTS
| YEAR |
MOUNTAIN |
ROUTE |
PLACE |
ASCENT
NO. |
DIFFICULTY |
| 1982 |
THE
CAPTAIN |
THE
NOSE |
YOSEMITE |
2
NA |
ED |
| 1983 |
THE
DIAMOND |
INTEGRAL |
ROCKY
MOUNTAINS |
1
NA |
VD |
| 1984 |
THE
CAPTAIN |
SALATHE |
YOSEMITE |
6
NA |
VD |
| 1985 |
AG.
PEIGNE |
VOUCHER |
ALPS |
1
NA |
D |
| 1987 |
SHISHA
PANGMA (8,046 m) |
NORTH
FACE |
HIMALAYAS |
1
FLA |
D |
| 1988 |
MAKALU
(8,463 m) |
MAK.LA |
HIMALAYAS |
up
to 8,200 m |
D |
| 1989 |
EVEREST
(8,750 m) |
SOUTH
SUMMIT S.E. RIDGE |
HIMALAYAS |
2
NA |
D |
| 1990 |
PILAR
FRÊNEY |
DIRECT |
ALPS |
1
NA |
ED |
| 1990 |
PETIT
DRU |
AMERICAN
DIR. |
ALPS |
1
NA |
ED |
| 1990 |
AG.
POINTCENOT |
S.E.
FACE |
PATAGONIA |
1
FA |
VD |
| 1991 |
ASGARD |
EAST
FACE |
ARTIC |
1
NA |
ED |
| 1991 |
SVANHVIT |
SOUTH
FACE |
ARTIC |
1
A |
ED |
| 1992 |
ACONCAGUA |
GL.
POLISH |
ANDES |
-
- - - |
LD |
| 1992 |
KANCHENJUNGA
(8,586 m) |
ENGLISH
NORTH FACE |
HIMALAYAS |
up
to 7,950 m |
VD |
| From
1993 to 1998 she was semi-retired from high altitude
climbing because of frostbite in her hands during the
expedition to Kanchenjunga. She did some sporadic
ascents and continues training to achieve recovery and
actually her fingers can adapt to cold temperatures,
although not totally. |
| 1999 |
EVEREST |
S.E.
RIDGE |
HIMALAYAS |
1
FLA |
D |
| 1999-2001 |
PARTICIPATION
IN DIFFERENT COMPETITIONS OF EXTREME SPORTS IN MEXICO |
| 2002 |
CURRENTLY
IN RECESS BECAUSE OF SURGICAL INTERVENTION TO IMPLANT
PACE MAKER |
NOTES:
1
NA FIRST MEXICAN ASCENT
1
A FIRST ASCENT
1
FA
FIRST FEMALE ASCENT
1
FLA FIRST LATIN AMERICAN FEMALE ASCENT
TECHNICAL
DIFFICULTY (difficulty international notation):
LD LITTLE DIFFICULT
SD
SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT
D
DIFFICULT
VD
VERY DIFFICULT
ED EXTREMELY DIFFICULT
EverestHistory.com:
The women Summiters on Everest
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