as seen from Concordia
1954, an Italian expedition came to Pakistan to try
its luck on K2. It consisted of twelve climbers and
four scientists and was led by veteran mountaineer,
Professor Ardito Desio, who had come to these
mountains with Italian expeditions before the World
Colonel M. Ataullah and Arshad Munir
accompanied the expedition from Karakoram Club of
Pakistan. Captain (later Lt. General) G.S. Butt was
the liaison officer. Poor weather
hindered the progress of the party for a pretty long time. As soon as the
weather cleared, the party made very good progress and set up camp II. It
was at this camp that one of its members, Mario Puchoz, a 36-year old
guide, died of pneumonia on the 21st June. It Is believed that he had
contracted high altitude pulmonary oedema (water on the lungs) which was
not well known at the time and does not respond to antibiotics.
K2 Base Camp
The party established six
more camps on the south-east ridge. Camp IX was a bivouac. On the 31st of
July, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni started from the bivouac. They
exhausted their oxygen supply 500 feet short of summit but could not resist
the temptation to be the first to climb the mighty K2 peak. They, therefore,
continued their assault and reached the summit at six in the evening. After
staying for a while they started descending and reached Camp VIII round about
eleven at night. In this way the saga of K2 ended.
died on Wednesday at 104! He was an explorer, geologist and cartographer and
the leader of the first successful K2 Expedition. Desio lead scientific
expedition into his 90's. He was the first Italian to reach the South Pole in
1962. His greatest achievement was this 1954 expedition to K2, which he
organized, that had 2 climbers (Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni ) reach
Did you miss ?
The Ashraf Aman Q&A, the 9th
person to Summit K2. A great Q&A!