completed the 14 8000 meter summits in 13 years (1982/95) at age
36. He is widely considered by many as the third greatest climber
ever, with the top three (Messner, Kukuczka, and Loretan) far
above any climber today.
Parbat 1982 via Diamir, Gasherbrum I 1983,Gasherbrum II 1983, Broad
Peak 1983, Manaslu 1984 north west ridge, Annapurna I 1985 traverse
with Nobert Joos, K2 1985, Dhaulagiri 1985 winter ascent east side,
Everest 1986 in 31 hours with Jean Troillet, Cho Oyu 1990,
Shishapangma 1990, Makalu 1991, Lhotse 1994, Kangchenjunga 1995.
Highlights include Nanga Parbat by the Diamir side, Manaslu by the
north-west ridge, Traverse of Annapurna with Robert Joss, Everest in
39 hours with Jean Troillet, the first winter ascent of the east side
of Dhaulagiri and more.
The last time we talked
about Loretan his
infant son was dead, in a horrible story.
is back climbing
attempting Jannu North Face with a 3 person team (himself, Ueli Steck
Loretan on the race to
finish the 8000 meter peaks:
"This 'race' is a little
outside the objective. I do not believe that it is a race between
climbers rather it is between the "media". Perhaps I am mistaken. If
people want to play, in my opinion, the climber must reach the highest
point and without oxygen, of course. In fact, if you have a minimum of
ethics, your heart will say to you if your climbing is clean or not.
Personally, I went twice to Shishapangma because the first time, in
1990, the route to the main summit was dangerous."