Birth: March 10, 1949
Team: He goes alone, joining or
sharing permits with other expeditions
Sponsor: No one, he still buys
his stuff and self-finance his climbs
Status: Still climbing Next
Expedition: probably somewhere in Pakistan
Only seven men
have climbed all fourteen 8000
meter peaks in the world, two of them are Italians and two Polish. 13
years after Reinhold Messner's exploit, Italian climber Sergio Martini
completed his Himalayan career climbing Mount Everest.
years old, is a non-professional climber: still teaching physical education in
public schools, still climbing and training during holidays, still walking and
hiking his way from Nepal valleys up to the top.
He lives in
Rovereto, a small town in Northern Italy surrounded by the Dolomites. Sergio
started his career back in the Sixties, gaining attention in the climbers
world with impressive new ways on Marmolada north face and joining two
Patagonia expedition to Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.
experience started in 1976: Martini was 27 and supported a successful
expedition to Dhaulagiri. Then his first 8000: he reached K2 summit in 1983.
"From that moment, I dedicated my time at the task, organizing one expedition
every year" he tells. He climbs Makalu in 1985, Nanga Parbat and Annapurna in
1986, Gasherbrum in 1987 and both Shishapangma and Cho Oyu in 1988. Then comes
Dhaulagiri (1989), Broad Peak (1993), Hidden Peak (1994), Kanchenjunga (1995),
Manaslu (1996), Lhotse (1997) [He reached the Summit of Lhotse again in 2000.]
Holy Mother Sagarmatha? "I tried it two times, in 1989 and 1998 - says Martini
- and I reached the South Peak in the second attempt, with Fausto De Stefani's
expedition". "I did it at last. " . A day in his life he'll not forget. Now
he's back home continuing his everyday life: school, home, and climbing.
Sergio Martini is not a showman in someway he's just an old guy from the
mountains. And his friends of the Italian Alpine Club in Trento had to build
up a surprise party with 800 people to celebrate. That night, he was told he
was going to a slide show. On stage, he whispered: "Thank you, but I'm not
8000 meter king. I'm not Reinhold Messner..."
Sergio bring up
a good question. Are many climbers today attempting the toughest route ? What
has happened to the attempts of climbers such as Reinhold Messner, Jerzy
Kukuczka (Jerzy died), Ehardt Loretan,
Krzysztof Wielicki and a few
others have might be considered in this elite group ?
Sergio Martini by Luigi Zoppello, Dolomutes, northern Italy, journalist