remembrance of Christo Prodanov 60 Anniversary of
the Bulgarian alpinist of the XX Century
Prodanov – the first steps in the
Christo Prodanov was born on the 24 February
1943 in Karlovo and died, aged 41, on Everest in 1984. He left
Department of metallurgy of the Bulgarian Technological
University with a degree in engineering. But it
was climbing that dominated his life and he had plenty of time to
devote to it. He took his first steps in 1958 and by 1959 had
climbed his first route in Pirin. He went on to make a reported
500 routes and variations throughout the mountains of Europe and
Asia, a number rarely matched either before or since by any
Bulgarian alpinist. He was best known as a connoisseur of elegant
rock climbs. His climbing career spanned over
26 years and he was
still putting up new routes in the 1958 and making interesting
ascents up to 1984.
Prodanov climbed widely with many of the famous
Bulgarian alpinists of the day, starting with the legendary Nikola
Korchev, his first “master of rock climbing”, Georgi
Atanasov, Blagoy Djivdjanov, Atanas
Kovandjiev, Dragolyub Kostov, Ivan Vasilev, Trifon Djambazov etc.
insatiably throughout the Alpine chain, Caucasus and
(at that time) Soviet Pamir. Prodanov
made the first Bulgarian ascent on 8000er –
Lhotse (8516 m) in 1981 (April 30), solo, without oxygen.
This attainment very
much paved the way for the Bulgarian Himalayan successes the
1967 – North
Face of Grandes Jorrrasses (Walker), first Bulgarian ascent,
1967 – Petit
Dru (Bonatti Route),
1969 – Freney
in Montblanc Massive,
1970 – “A
cross of Ushba” (in Caucasus),
1973 – a traverse in Shhelda
1974 - North
Face of Matterhorn, (Schmidt’s brothers route), first Bulgarian
1977 – Petit Dru (via “Route of
Guides” on the North Face),
28 1982, August 5 1982,
July 13 1983, August 2 1983
– Peak Lenin (at that time, nowadays Peak
Caufman, 7134 m),
– Peak Communism (at that time, nowadays
Peak Garmo, 7495 m),
1979, July 31 1979, 1982,
1983 – Peak Korzhenevskoi (7104 m),
1976 – Noshaq
(7492 m) in Afghani Hindukush.
On April 20 1984 Prodanov
ascended Everest via West ridge. He was the sixth man to climb
Everest solo, the 13th without oxygen and the eight to climb west
ridge (59 ascent, 159th climber on the top) . He remained on the
summit for a half hour and began the descent down the west ridge
proper, which had not been done before. At 9:10 P. M. he contacted
Base Camp and said he would bivouac because of darkness. The
following day, April 21, Prodanov had voice contact with Base Camp
although his voice was weak and the words could not be understood.
At 7:45 a click of the switch of his walkie-talkie was recorder
for the last time. No sign of him was ever heard again.
one book (“Lhotse 8516”) and many
articles and route descriptions in the newspaper “Echo”.
He is a winner
in the inquiry “A Bulgarian Alpinist of the XX Century”.
Bulgarian Alpine Club and member of the Expedition Commission of
Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms.
Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up
function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second
backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032
See more here.