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  EverestHistory.com: Stacy Allison


On September 29, 1988, Stacy Allison became the first American women to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. How she got there is a story of hard work, dedication and perseverance. The journey began while Stacy was still a student at the Oregon State University. She made a life altering decision to join a few fellow students on a road trip to Zion National Park and climb over break. She loved it, and her life has never been the same.

Shortly after discovering her passion for rock climbing Stacy started climbing mountains. First New Hampshire’s Mt. Washington, then the peaks in Alaska began to beckon and she found herself on the slopes of Mt. Huntington for her first mountaineering expedition. The Huntington climb has unsuccessful as her partner broke his ice axe 200 feet from the summit and they had to turn back. This experience only fueled her fire, as her desire to reach the top of the world’s most technical peaks grew. The following year Stacy reached the top of Mt. McKinley and went on to be part of the first successful all women ascent of Dablam, Nepal’s Matterhorn at 22,495ft.

Stacy’s first attempt at Mt. Everest was as a member of The North Face American Everest Expedition. However, due to days spent waiting out a challenging storm trapped in a snow cave and relentless winds the expedition made the difficult decision to turn back. When she returned to the mountain in 1988 as a member of the Northwest American Everest Expedition, Stacy’s dream of standing on top of the Worlds highest peak came into fruition. After 29 days on the mountain Stacy became the first American women to reach the summit.

Stacy has since been a successful expedition leader up K2, considered the world’s most difficult peak and second highest. Stacey’s mission is to encourage people to move beyond there set limitations to achieve their dreams. She accomplishes these goals not only through guiding, but public speaking and through her writing. Her books include, Beyond the Limits: A Women’s Triumph on Everest and, Many Mountains to Climb: Reflections on Competence, Courage and Commitment.

For more on Stacy and her speaking, see her speaking page here.

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