If there were a
King of lightweight style climbing then Australian Tim
Macartney-Snape would have a more than reasonable claim
to the throne.
Born in Tanzania (Africa) in 1956 to an
Australian mother and a British father Macartney-Snape has made numerous
ascents of the world's tallest mountains in classic lightweight style without
bottled oxygen. In May of 1990 Macartney-Snape became the first person to
climb the full height of Everest from base camp to summit without oxygen,
sherpa support or fellow climbers. This three-month climb was immortalized in
the award winning film "Everest: Sea to Summit".
Macartney-Snape made his first summit
in 1984 along with fellow Australian Greg Mortimer in an expedition led by
Geoffrey Bartram along the North Face/Norton Couloir. This ascent was done
without oxygen and set a new route up the North Face. Nor have
Macartney-Snape's summits been limited to Everest. He has climbed in
Australia, Africa and South America, including a a new route on Gasherbrum IV
in Pakistan (1986).
Along with "Everest: Sea to Summit"
Macartney-Snape has published two others books "Mountain Adventurer", and
"Being Outside". He lives about 100 km southwest of Sydney and is an outdoor
instructor and biologist with a Bachelor of Science from the Australian