Wang Fu-chou, Chinese, is credited as
being the 7th person to Summit Everest, and the first from the North
The Chinese ascent which was
"discussed" for several years is accepted today as the first ascent
from the North side. The Chinese attributed their success to the
Chinese political system emphasizing the fact that they prevailed on
the route that the British failed at.
and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan-chun,
makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and
Northeast Ridge. Long doubted by Western mountaineers because
of the lack of a summit photo and the claim of summiting at
night, the photos and film the Chinese did release reveal that
they at least climbed the Second Step, the key to the route
(although Reinhold Messner claims he possesses documentation
proving they didn't climb it, so far this evidence has not
been produced). The final assault party of Wang Fu-chou, Liu
Lien-man, Chu Ying-hua, and the Tibetan Konbu aka Gonbu (also known as
Gonpa) assaulted the final 15 foot (5 meter) Second Step
headwall using pitons and team tactics. After Liu Lien- man
repeatedly falls off attempting to lead the pitch, Chu Yin-hua
takes off his boots and socks, and using a shoulder stand
last vertical pitch in bare feet! Exhausted by his effort, Liu
Lien-man is forced to halt at 28,600 feet (8,700 meters), but
the remaining three climbers make it to the summit where they
purportedly leave a plaster bust of Chairman Mao by a rock
Rumors of a 1952 Russian expedition
that resulted in failure continue....
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