EverestHistory.com: 1963

1963 was an American year on Everest. Unlike the present day, which might see multiple expeditions from different countries and a thousand climbers on the slopes of Everest during the climbing season, 1963 saw one, an American expedition.

The American Mount Everest Expedition was sponsored by the National Geographic Society and led by Swiss-born climber Norman G. Dyhrenfurth. Dyhrenfurth himself had been a member on a Swiss attempt at the summit in 1952. Though that expedition would stop short of the summit, the experience would drive Dyhrenfurth forward leading him to spend the early 60’s raising funds for the massive American assault on the peak.

The expedition would eventually cost 400,000 dollars and include 19 Americans, 37 Sherpas, and 907 porters. Following a 187 mile trek to base camp in early 1963, Jim Whittaker, along with Sherpa Nawang Gombu, would summit on May 1 becoming the first American to stand atop the world. Americans Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad followed three weeks later along the same South Col. route pioneered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Americans Will Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein were performing the first ascent along the previously unclimbed West Ridge at the same time. The four men met up on the South face after Unsoeld and Hornbein performed the first traverse of the peak.  Deadly tragedy nearly struck as the four men were forced by darkness to bivouac at 28,000 feet without shelter. Though the bone-chilling night on the slopes of Everest would cause serious frostbite all four men would live to see the sunrise. They were able to continue their descent, eventually being carried by Sherpas to a point where they could be removed by helicopter.

Although the four men bivouacked on Everest that night would escape alive, not everyone on the expedition was so fortunate. John “Jake” Breitenbach was crushed by a falling ice wall while climbing the treacherous Khumbu Icefall on March 23. It would continue to be a hazardous passage claiming 17 climbers over the next 38 years.

The successful summit of Everest would bring fame to the American climbers. They were presented with the National Geographic Society’s greatest honor the Hubbard Medal. John F. Kennedy presented the award in the White House Rose Garden in July 1963.

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