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Slovenian climbers: Part Two


Slovenian Climbers, 1778-1998

Last I stepped off was between the Ice Man and 1960 to 1985 update on Slovenian climbers in the Himalayas. Alas, the climbing, and first timing new routes Slovenians are known for did not stop there. Further efforts, combined with success, casualty and glory continued.

In 1991 Slovenian team lead by Tone Skarja climbed all peaks of Kanchenjunga and Kumbhakarna. The 1995 team included Davor Karnicar at which time he skied Annapurna I. Imagine skiing down 8091 meters? What a gas. That same year (95) Slovenian climbers got the ultimate, all 14 summits on 8000ers. (No, not in one day not by one climber).

1996 was new routes time and Slovenians, as usual, had to do something first. So they did west Nepal range. Same year, Tomaz Humar did Ama Dablam. 1997 team included, you guessed, Tomaz Humar who did “new route” again on Nuptse. 1998 was garbage pick up time. Happy participants in the Environmental Everest expeditions included Slovenians, who did Dhaulagiri I. Slovenia is super clean to this day as the environmental efforts are part of daily life.

Yeh, lets do 98 to 01 next time and let me tell you what you may not know.

1778 recorded a true mountaineering achievement for Matija Kos, Luka Korosec and Stefan Rozic. They summated Triglav, elevation 2864 meters, the first summit ever. We are talking 1778 folks, so that is a true mountaineering success. Was some other Slovenian there before them, we will newer know as there is no record (that I know of). I do believe so, however. Can’t prove it. In 1800, at ripe age of 26, Valentin Stanic first ascended Grossglockner in Austria (3797 meters).

See what I mean about the new routes and firsts for Slovenians. And during 1700-1900 they were not even allowed to climb the mountains because Germans, Austrians and Italians kept them to themselves under the guise of Alpine clubs and their rights. Slovenians were not privy to club membership  and thus were not to climb their own mountains. Yeah, right. The will and love of the rock is in the blood and they overcame the idiocy of the elite regardless.

Cvetka, December 20, 2001

More facts: Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik on 13 May, 1979 were the first Slovenians to Summit Everest. This Slovenian Route along the West Ridge still ranks among the toughest Everest routes. 2 days later more members of this team summited: the Slovenian Stane Belak-Srauf, the Croatian Stipe Bozic and Ang Phu Sherpa. Slovenia woman summiters include Marija Stremfelj who Summited Everest in 1990 with her husband Andrej (the first couple to Summit together). Pavle Kozjek, as the first Slovenian to Summit Everest without bottled oxygen in 1997.

For Slovenian climbers: A Very Brief Overview see here.

 






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