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The American Everest Fantasy Ridge Expedition 2005

©Chris Bonington

Climbing Higher

 An exploration in adventure and opportunity –

The American Fantasy Ridge Everest Expedition 2005


CONCEPT: An Elite team of American climbers potentially headed by Pete Athens (7 time Everest Summiters) and George Dijmarescu (6 Everest summits in the last 6 years) will attempt the last unclimbed route on Mt Everest.

“George Mallory and Andrew "Sandy" Irvine first attempted to climb Everest in 1924, mountaineers considered East Ridge the "Fantasy Route" -- so difficult it can be climbed only in the imagination”.


·        Team uniforms can be designed with sponsor logos.

 ·       Sponsor of the Progress tracking on EverestNews.com’s website with the possibility of special school/education projects on topics like geography, culture and history around Everest.

·        Prizes for competition – sponsor equipment or cash etc.

·        Film- The expedition plans to Film the expedition 

©George Dijmarescu

ROUTE: When one views the route map on Everest, the Fantasy Ridge is unmarked and unclimbed. The difficultly of this route continues when one notes that after climbing the Fantasy Ridge, climbers must connect to the North East Ridge, which has only seen 6 summits all in 1995, with 3 deaths including Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker. The difficulty on the North East Ridge involves crossing the pinnacles on the North East Ridge with no place to go but up!

STRATEGY: An elite team of American climbers potentially headed by Pete Athens (7 time Everest Summiter), would lead the North East Ridge route and fix ropes on the pinnacles. George Dijmarescu (6 Everest summits in the last 6 years) will attempt the Fantasy Ridge and meet up with Pete Athens' team on the North east. The two groups would summit together. Elite Sherpa climbers would assist the elite American climbers in getting the job done. Lakpa Sherpa, the only woman that has summited Everest more than 2 times (she has 4 summits of Everest) would also assist on the expedition.

Santosh Yadav who lead a succesful expedition on Everest via the Kangshung Face, stated "For three days we poured over the map thinking: 'This way it is not possible. That way it looks impossible,'" she told The Associated Press

SCHEDULE: Spring 2005: 25-Feb-05 till 10th Jun-2005.

©George Dijmarescu


SPONSORSHIP: Naming Rights

·        Sponsorship naming rights if contract signed by December 10th, time is of the essence.

·        The expedition will work closely with sponsor’s PR team to achieve branding.

The sponsorship fund is used purely to pay for the expenses of the expedition. The sponsorship budget does not include the following:

·        Costs relating to any publicity plan – hiring of PR agency, press conferences, media and publicity events etc.

·        Costs of visual branding - logo, badges, banners, stickers etc.

·        Costs relating to any charity campaign.

·        Costs relating to any science part of the expedition

·        Costs relating to any persons traveling to base camp.

SPONSORSHIP: Other levels

  • Gear
  • Communications
  • Computers
  • Official suppliers
  • Cybercast sponsor

©George Dijmarescu

Media Coverage: Exclusive Internet coverage by EverestNews.com, The largest mountaineering publication in the world. EverestNews.com’s vision creates and fosters a community to share the knowledge and the experiences of mountaineering and exploration among adventure enthusiasts worldwide. Founded in 1996, borne of the passion of entrepreneur George Martin, and rooted in the values of objectivity, honesty, and humility, EverestNews.com has become the world’s leading source of mountaineering news and information service, bringing together a community of several hundred thousand readers.  It is a trusted source to prominent media organizations including The New York Times, BBC, The Wall Street Journal, and CTV; and to adventure and exploration publications including Outside Magazine, National Geographic Adventure, and Sports Illustrated. Socially minded with a strong sense of community spirit, EverestNews.com provides news items, expedition coverage, and historical and educational materials on its site free of charge, and invests in and supports initiatives such as the 2004 Mallory and Irvine search expedition, Karing for Kids, whose dream is to build a series of medical clinics across Nepal, and the Climb for Peace.

©Chris Bonington

John F Kennedy said: "We are doing this not because is easy but because is hard."

It is time for American to regain its place in mountaineering history. Can you help us?? To offer support or assistance for this historic climb, please contact us at

Together, we can Climb Higher.

Mr and Mrs Sir Edmund Hillary with Lakpa Sherpa and her 15 year old sister who summited Everest last year...

Brief Bios: George Dijmarescu is a Connecticut resident, a determine late comer at the fascinating sport of mountaineering, topple Everest six times in the last six years. In 2000 he wanted to see how is to climbed Everest without Oxygen and without any sherpa support, he succeeded being the only Oxygen less summiter in that year on the North side of Everest but like many others he believe that climbers should keep their brain cells for themselves, Everest high and the third of the Oxygen from the sea level justify the use of supplementary Oxygen. Climbing Everest as a vacation and succeeding is for many, impressive.

Escaping Communist Romania almost twenty years ago, risking being shot at the border, he claim climbing Everest is nothing in comparison with escaping the iron grip of Communism. He started climbing in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, then he directed his attention to the higher mountains of each North and South America, both climbed alone with little or no experience. While mountains like Denali can offer tremendous personal reward both from its beauty and its challenges, will never give a climber the experience on how is to be at high altitude of Himalayas, its symptoms and the isolation of a lengthy expedition. Everest was there for him to try.

The love and passion for climbing made him to return year after year to the same location, Everest. While summiting the tallest mountain will give anyone a special feeling, summiting multiple times will make one only proud of the accomplishment.

George believe that the future of high altitude climbing will rest with new, technically challenged routes even repetitions of extremely hard routes. As we evolved and become the new generation following the pioneers of American climbers such was: Tom Hornbein, Willie Unsoeld, Barry Bishop, Lute Jerstad, James Whittaker; on our turn we should not shy away from these challenges.

Lakpa Sherpa grew up with her nine siblings in the Makalu region of Nepal, in an impoverished village at the foot of the fifth tallest mountain in world. There were no no roads, no school, nor any  medical facilities. A letter the Sherpa wrote with the help of friends convinced the daughter of the Prime Minister of Nepal to train and organize the first all-Sherpani Everest expedition. In 2000, as leader of the all-female Sherpa expedition, she became the first Nepali woman to climb Mount Everest and survive. She was the only member of the team to reach the summit. Lapka Sherpa, who left Makalu on foot, returned to her village in a helicopter filled with money she had earned on her climb, much of which she donated to the people of Makalu. At a reception with the King of Nepal, Lakpa Sherpa was awarded the medal of the Order of Gorkha Dakshina Bahu. She is the only woman to have received that honor.

Lakpa Sherpa met Gheorghe Dijmarescu in Kathmandu at a party commemorating her ascent of Everest. A year later they married and she joined him in Hartford. In May of 2003, Lakpa Sherpa and Dijmarescu returned to Mt. Everest together. Lakpa reached the summit for the third time – more times than any other woman. Her brother, two cousins and her sister, who, at 15-years-old, became the youngest person ever to climb the mountain, joined her on last year’s climb. With relatives now working on high altitude climbs in Nepal, Tibet and Pakistan, Lapka Sherpa and Dijmarescu have become the heart of one of the world’s great families of high-altitude mountaineers. Lakpa Sherpa’s dream is that, through her mountaineering accomplishments, she can raise the money needed to build a school and medical clinic in Makalu so that her people can overcome the illiteracy and poor medical care that have been her family’s greatest challenges in life. In 2004, she summited Everest for here fourth time, no other woman has summited Everest more than 2 times.

Peter Athans: Himalayan Mountaineer and Motivational Speaker

Perhaps the most successful and modest American Everest Climber ever, Peter Athans is known in some circles simply as "Mr. Everest". Since 1985, He has led 15 expeditions, attempted five different routes from the Tibetan and Nepalese sides of the mountain and on seven occasions has attained the summit, more than any other western climber. His most recent accomplishment was leading the 2002 National Geographic Everest Expedition, filming a special two-hour program celebrating fifty years of Everest exploration to be released next April. Peter was accompanied by the sons of Famous Everest Climbers Barry Bishop, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in what is certain to be a memorable film. During his frequent visits to Nepal, Peter has taken a particular interest in the Sherpa people, an indigenous population of western Tibetan descent who reside in the southern foothills of Everest. To honor their contribution to Himalayan mountaineering and Everest history, Peter spearheaded and organized the 1991 Sherpa Everest Expedition and documented the event for ESPN and National Geographic Magazine.

In December of 1997, Peter was granted the David A. Sowles award for his dramatic rescue efforts high on Everest in 1996, assisting two frostbitten and exhausted climbers from Everest's south col. The Sowles medal is the highest award conferred by the American Alpine Club, given rarely and only to climbers who have distinguished themselves through assuming great personal risk, sacrificing their own objectives and going to the assistance of those in need.

Everest looms from Peter's resume, but his accomplishments on other peaks are equally impressive. Over a twenty-year period, Peter has been active on each continent, climbing, guiding and exploring. He has led expeditions to Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Manaslu, K2 and has succeeded in forging a new line up the rarely climbed south face and ridge of Annapurna's South Peak. Peter’s rapid ascents of Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Pumori have been remarkable in their lightweight efficiency and speed.

Peter is a member of The North Face Design and Development team, guides mountaineering adventures throughout the world and is a high altitude film-maker, earning him credits on films for NOVA, National Geographic Society and in the feature film, " Seven Years in Tibet". Peter is currently working on an autobiographical project to be released next spring entitled " Nearly Sherpa: Seven Summits of Everest".

George Martin: General Manager EverestNews.com, who has successful organized the Ararat Peace climb to the North side of Mt Ararat and the 2004 Mallory and Irvine: The Final Chapter expedition.

Together Pete, George and Lakpa have 17 summits of Everest, they will need the experience from them all as they attempt what could possibly be the hardest climb ever undertaken.

To offer support or assistance for Gheorghe and Lakpa’s historic climb, please contact us at

Confidential. This document is not to be released to a third party without written agreement from EverestNews.com.

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