Surveyor General of India from 1830 to 1843, records the location of
1848: Peak b
is surveyed the British, which ruled India; The height is
calculated at 30,200 feet from measurements taken 110 miles
Great Trigonmetrical Survey of India determines the Peak XV is
the highest mountain in the world.
1854: Peak b
renamed Peak XV.
Surveyor Andrew Waugh completes the first height measurement,
declaring Everest to be 8840 meters high. (29,002 feet).
1865: Peak XV
re-named Mt. Everest to honor Sir George Everest, the Surveyor
General of India. Everest called Chomolungma in Tibet and
Sagarmatha in Nepal.
Francis Younghusband leads a British army Expedition to Lhasa.
is photographed for the first time from a Tibetan village 94
John Noel, a British military captian, travels to Tibet in
disguise to find the best way to approach
Everest. He comes within 40 miles of Everest, after
finding the mountain range unexpectly. At the time foreigners
were forbidden in Tibet.
Dalai Lama opens Tibet to outsiders. A British party explores
a route to Everest from the North.
Attempt to climb Everest by the British
expedition: None reach the summit.
Sherpa climbers die in an avalanche. The first reported deaths
team with Lt. Col. Norton reaches 8580 meters (28150 feet) without oxygen.
George Mallory and Andrew Irvine are seen somewhere above Camp
1. They never return. It is reported they "were going strong
for the top". The mystery of Everest and the press
Detailed Timeline: 1900-1925
The Mount Everest Committee is re-established with Sir
William Goodenough as Chair.
3: First flight over Mount Everest by two British Westland
biplanes powered by turbocharged Pegasus engines.
1933: The 4th
British Expedition is unsuccessful.
Wilson attempts to solo Everest - his body is later found at
6400 meters. How far did he get? No one knows.
British Expedition (Reconnaissance). A small post-monsoon
expedition led by Eric Shipton, that was Tenzing Norgay's
first trip to the mountain as a young porter.
British Expedition with Hugh Ruttledge returning as Leader.
British Expedition. Led by Bill Tilman
Canadian-born Brit Earl Denman attempts to illegally climb
Everest from the North along with Sherpas Ang Dawa and Tenzing
allows foreign Expeditions to climb for the first time.
Chinese invade Tibet, and Tibet falls under Chinese rule.
Everest expeditions are closed. Nepal
allows expeditions from the south.
Detailed Timeline: 1925-1950
official permission from Nepal, and only a few months after
the 1950 Anglo-American Nepal Reconnaissance, the Dane Klavs
Becker-Larsen attempts to climb the Northern pre-war Everest
route but via a southern approach.
Reconnaissance supported by the Alpine Club and the Royal
Geographic Society. A post-monsoon exploration led by Eric
Expeditions sponsored by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine
Research including Tenzing
Norgay and Raymond Lambert attempt Everest via the South-East Ridge Route
turning around very high but before the South Summit. The
expedition lays the ground work for 1953.
Summit: Tenzing Norgay & Sir Edmund Percival
Hillary (New Zealand) 5/29/53 via the South-East Ridge Route
of Everest is adjusted by 26 feet to 29,028 feet or 8848 meters.
Everest/Lhotse Expedition led by A. Eggler
Chinese/Russian reconnaissance from the North that reaches
21,000 feet (6,400 meters) below the North Col.
and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan- chun,
makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and
four-man expedition led by the American Woodrow Wilson Sayre
following the pre-war British route up the North Col and NE
Indian Expedition with Major John Dias as leader.
Whittaker reaches the Summit of Everest becoming the first
first ascent of the Everest West Ridge, actually the West
Ridge/North Face by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein on 5/22/63.
Also the first traverse as
they descended the South East Ridge/ South Col.
Indian Expedition, with Commander M.S Kohli as leader. On May 20,
1965: Nawang Gombu becomes the first person to Summit Everest
twice. Both of this Summits were via the South east ridge, his
first as a member of Jim Whittaker's American Expedition were
he became the 11th person the Summit Everest. Out of the first
seventeen summits of Everest, Nawang had two of them!
Nepal is closed to mountaineering during this politically
tense period involving antagonists India and China.
Japanese SW Face Reconnaissance Expeditions.
Japanese SW Face Expedition led by the seventy-year old
veteran Saburo Matsukata.
Japanese Ski Expedition.
International Expedition. Norman Dyhrenfurth leads an
expedition with thirty climbers from thirteen different
Tamang of Nepal, summits at what is reported to be 16 years old. It is later believed
that Sambhu was 18 ! So is Everest climbing.
Japanese Expedition. Led by Michio Yuasa, this large forty-
eight man expedition attempted both the SW Face and South Col
route. The SW Face party reaches 27,200 feet (8,300 meters)
before giving up. Success is achieved on the South Col route
when Hisahi Ishiguro and Yasuo Kato reach the summit, the
first post-monsoon success on the mountain.
1975: Japanese Ladies Expedition led by Mrs Eiko Hisana. On
Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the
the South-East Ridge.
1975: A Tibetan
woman, Phantog, reaches the Summit only a few days after Junko
on 5/27/75. Becoming he second woman to summit Everest and the
first woman to summit from the North (Tibet) side.
Haston and Doug Scott Summit via the South west face.
Detailed Timeline: 1950-1975
Ascent without bottled oxygen: Peter Habeler (Austria) and
Reinhold Messner (Italy) 5/8/78 via the South-East Ridge
first European woman and the third woman to summit Everest, Wanda
Rutkiewicz, reaches the top. Wanda goes on to become known
as the greatest woman climber ever.
first woman, Hannelore Schmatz, dies on Everest descending
from the Summit after becoming only the 4th woman to Summit
opens up the north side (Tibet) again to western climbers.
Stremfeli and Nejc Zaplotnik Summit via the true West ridge
and descend via the Hornbein Couloir on 5/13/79.
Winter ascent Krzysztof
Wielicki (Poland) 2/17/80
Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the
North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days
entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the
use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.
Skreslet first Canadian to reach the Summit.
1983: Lou Reichardt,
Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or
Kangshung face on 10/8/83.
Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the
Batard, a Frenchman, sets the speed record on Everest on the
South East ridge route from EBC to the Summit in 22.5
1988: The First
American Woman, Stacey Allison reaches the Summit of
Married Couple to summit together: Andrej & Marija
Stremfelj (Slovenia), 10/7/90.
Son of a summiter to Summit Everest: Peter Hillary (New
father and son to summit together: Jean Noel Roche and his son
Roche Bertrand aka Zebulon. They flew together on a tandem paraglider from the
south Col. They landed at base camp on the 7th of October
1990. Roche Bertrand was 17 at the time and became the
youngest person to ever climb Everest at the time.
case of two brothers to reach the Summit together: Alberto
and Felix Inurrategui September 25, 1992.
first Nepalese woman, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa, summits Everest but
dies descending from the Summit on 4/23/93.
1995: The first
ascent of the Northeast Ridge, completed by Kiyoshi Furuno
(Japan), Shigeki Imoto (Japan), Dawa Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, and Nima Sherpa.
Mallory, grandson of George Leigh Mallory, reaches the Summit
1996: 15 die
on Everest, the most in a single year, including the most successful
guide of his time, the great climber Rob Hall.
Rita Sherpa (born 1947), Summits Everest for the 10th time. (1983,1984,1985,1987,1988,1990,1992,1993,1995,and 1996 all
ascents without bottled oxygen.)
first ascent of the North-Northeast couloir by Peter Kuznetzov,
Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov on 5/20/96.
Side: Fastest Ascent via the standard North Col-north
ridge-north face Route: Hans Kammerlander (Italian) 5/24/96,
16 hours 45 minutes from base camp. He left BC at 6400 meters
at 5pm on May 23, 1996 and was on the Summit 16 hours 45
minutes later at 9:45am the next day. He descended most of the
route on skis.
1999: On May
12, 1999: Lev
Sarkisov (2/12/38) became the oldest man to summit Everest.
His record was later broken, but Lev is a special person.
Lev, from Georgia, was 60years, 161 days young when he reached
1999: May 6,
Chiri Sherpa spent 21 hours and 30 minutes on the Summit of Everest.
Mallory's body is found by and expedition lead by Eric
Simonson. The mystery remains unanswered.
National Geographic Society revised the elevation of Everest
to 29,035 feet (8850 meters). Nepal does not accept the
2000: New Speed
Record Nepal Side: Babu
Chiri Sherpa; from Everest base camp to the Summit via the
South East ridge in 16 hours and 56 minutes on May 21st,
Sherpa Summits for the 11th time.
woman: Anna Czerwinska (born 7/10/49) climbed Everest from
Nepal side on 5/22/2000.
true Ski descent: Davo
Roche Bertrand and
his wife Claire Bernier Roche flew together on a tandem
paraglider from the North side Summit of Everest. The
paraglider arrived at ABC 8 minutes later...This first husband
and wife to fly from the Summit together !
Stefan Gatt the
first to Snowboard from the Summit of Everest.
on his Snowboard completed the
first-ever descent of Everest on a snowboard from the Summit
At 16 Temba
Tsheri Sherpa become the youngest person to Summit
American Sherman Bull, at age 64, is the oldest person to summit Mount Everest.
American Erik Weihenmayer becomes the first ever blind person
to Summit Everest.
more to be added here in the coming weeks...